I have to say, I am still not that comfortable in the water, and when I come across a huge empty beach with a nice break, I keep asking myself; Is this right? How come no one is here?
I am also more comfortable with more people out in the water that I can keep an eye on to make sure I am not to far out and wont get caught in a rip curl (< thank you grandma for scaring me with rip curls as a kid…). And also, other surfers can help keep an eye out for the dreaded sharks. I know sharks are actually our friends and they don’t want to attack people, but they still scare the crap out of me.
There were only a handful of people out in the water at San Onofre and no life guard on duty, but the water was nice and calm with a perfect break for someone who is still a crappy surfer like me so I wasn’t so uncomfortable. The only thing that creeped me out a little was sitting there on your board, dangling your feet in the water just waiting for a shark to come and take a munch. But then 5 dolphins made my day when they came up and played about 30ft away from us. Way cool! They only stayed for a little while, but it made me super calm. Someone once told me that if you see dolphins in the water you can be almost certain there will be no sharks out.
It it definitely time for me to get that waterproof camera!
The marine layer started to roll in around 3pm and it messed up the sunset, but still an awesome day of surfing!
